Last month I published Part 1 of RV Hot-Skin testing. Here's Part 2 which takes a deep dive into hot-skin troubleshooting! Please proceed with caution since this can be dangerous….
I would agree, but I’m going to test this anyways. I have a 4-wire Kelvin Bridge ohmmeter which can test down to 0.001 ohms and self-calibrates to null out the lead resistance. I’ll take pictures.
Mike, On my 1994 Prowler 25P I am reading 12V at the frame. When unplugged from shore power and I run a ohms test from the ground to the frame it is OL. is this as simple as just replacing the 30A cord?
Great info Mike. If you could create a PDF of all three parts people could download them and make printed copies if need be. I've always kept a information file on any vehicle I have owned. TSB's, shared tech info through groups like this one. Thanks
Good stuff Mike, but who among us out here is actually going to do all this? I do the hot skin test sometimes but that's it. I plug my tester into the pedestal to make sure the connections look good before I plug the trailer in, and that's it.
Showing the test to the stabilizer jack screw is not a good place to test. The jack screw itself is not bonded directly to the trailer frame. It passes though the threads to the nut and then through the pivot pins on the legs. All of these are high resistance connections.
I would agree, but I’m going to test this anyways. I have a 4-wire Kelvin Bridge ohmmeter which can test down to 0.001 ohms and self-calibrates to null out the lead resistance. I’ll take pictures.
Mike, On my 1994 Prowler 25P I am reading 12V at the frame. When unplugged from shore power and I run a ohms test from the ground to the frame it is OL. is this as simple as just replacing the 30A cord?
Very good, clear information stated in layman’s terms. Some readers may not know which tab is the “hot” on a 30 amp plug. Looking forward to part 3
Great info Mike. If you could create a PDF of all three parts people could download them and make printed copies if need be. I've always kept a information file on any vehicle I have owned. TSB's, shared tech info through groups like this one. Thanks
Good stuff Mike, but who among us out here is actually going to do all this? I do the hot skin test sometimes but that's it. I plug my tester into the pedestal to make sure the connections look good before I plug the trailer in, and that's it.
PS: connect the meter and move the stabilizer. The resistance will jump up and down. Same as corrosion on an electrical connector.
Showing the test to the stabilizer jack screw is not a good place to test. The jack screw itself is not bonded directly to the trailer frame. It passes though the threads to the nut and then through the pivot pins on the legs. All of these are high resistance connections.