Is your RV equipped with a propane, 120-volt AC or 12-volt DC fridge? Or maybe you don't have a refrigerator at all. Please take this poll and let me know...
Just upgraded my 2021 Dometic 3-way to a 12 volt only NovaKool 6406D dual compressor model. Too many issues with propane. Many new RV come now with 12/120 volt compressor refrigerators. My brand, Leisure Travel Vans, just switched to the 12 volt Norcold beginning with 2024 models.
I have a NovaKool with two Danfoss compressors, one for fridge, one for freezer and lately I added a W1209 circuit board to control the fridge’s temperature.
We have been using a $700 residential fridge for about 4 years now. I did have to replace the circuit board recently for $60. I am not sure if it failed because of bouncing down the road, or because we bought a cheap refrigerator. Either way, it is still way cheaper than a 2 way RV fridge, has a lot more room, does not have issues with frosting up, and does not freeze in the winter.
Ditched using the traditional RV fridge in my 1957 Avion R20, 1978 Argosy 6.0 Minuet and 4WD Chevrolet Express Van. I now exclusively use a Dometic Fridge/Freezer combination electric cooler. Portable for use in all 3 above and keeps food COLD or FROZEN for a longtime. Best RV Fridge I have ever used. By the way the original fridge/stove combo in my second oldest known to exist Avion camper still works properly!
When I replaced my original 20+year old propane (2017), I looked closely at the 12 volt fridges on the market. At that time all were very low rated, plus the expense of solar panels, and where to put the extra lead acid batteries. I finally decided on propane again so I could boondock w/o running the generator. Now, my decision would be 12 volt. I just replaced my 430 AH lead acid batteries (5* years old ) with 2 - 230 AH lithium batteries, and solar has dropped dramatically in price.
Hi Gretchen, I have a 1999 diesel Motorhome. It was designed based on having lead acid batteries for both the house and the chassis. I had 3 lead acid batteries sitting in a tray designed for 3 batteries. Total amp hours was 432, giving me usable 216 amp hours. I had already installed a Victron inverter/charger capable of Lithium ion batteries. I installed 2 - 230 amp hour lithium batteries giving me 460 usable amp hours.
After installing the batteries i found that I had to totally separate the 2 battery systems. I searched for a device that could separate the systems but allow them to be charged from the inverter. Couldn’t find anything. So I set up the house system to supply the house only and be charged by the inverter while hooked to shore power or the generator. I then hard wired a conventional 4 stage battery charger to charge the chassis batteries. Works great! I’m still looking for a solution to charge both systems at the same time. The problem is that the inverter charger now supplies 14.2 volts instead of the 13.2 volt float charger as well as the lithium batteries with their higher voltage ended up charging the chassis batteries.
I haven’t installed solar and probably won’t unless I decide to add a 12 volt fridge, as I can now charge the lithium batteries in about 4 hours opposed to around 8-10 hours.
Many thanks. I’m switching to a 12v fridge, gas/electric is on its last legs. Solar (flat-wrap) in the future. Husband and I were wondering how to separate the two systems and you just confirmed his redesign ideas. We will do the work ourselves. I won’t have to provide CAD drawings to an installer and can default to our usual felt-tip pen on a paper towel prototype sketches.
I had a devilish time figuring out how to separate the systems but still keep the ability to use the auxiliary start system. My vehicle wiring diagram wasn’t right as to the various solenoid’s purpose.
One other thing, where you plug in the 120 charger need to be on shore power only. Otherwise the house battery will charge the coach battery when running on batteries only.
Good to know. So we should “proof” all the adjacent wiring to make sure it’s correct before starting the process. Tedious but necessary. Won’t be the first time we got into a system and said “This ain’t right!!!” Almost every upgrade had a “stop and verify the OEM is wrong…” event.
We camp off grid most of the time, so having a propane option is essential for us. We don't have enough solar to keep up with the large demand of a 12v type., so I am happy that our trailer came with the propane option.
I have to question the automatic “replace it with a residential” response I frequently see when someone says their absorption unit failed. If you look closely at the technical information on many smaller residential units you’ll find that they are not recommended for cabinet or built in installation. This is because the heat that has been removed from the interior is expelled from the top and sides of the unit rather than exposed coils on the back as in older and larger refrigerators. Putting one into a close fitting RV enclosure can seriously affect their ability to remove heat efficiently.
"New to us" 2005 HR DP had a residential. We boondock at racetracks almost exclusively. At 1st opportunity, we yanked it out and replaced with a new factory direct propane/electric. Our batteries thanked us! LOL. Not looking to/don't care to add solar, Lithium, etc. We like wat we like and are used to. YMMV.
12V TruckFridge. With lithium batteries and charging while driving, our portable solar panels almost never get used. Propane generator, not needed yet. Closest thing to a perpetual motion machine you can get.
Opted for "propane/electric" choice, it's actually a 3-way, but figured 12V is still electric!
I have JC Refrigeration Conversion, Norcold 1095 to 12 volt Compressor.
Just upgraded my 2021 Dometic 3-way to a 12 volt only NovaKool 6406D dual compressor model. Too many issues with propane. Many new RV come now with 12/120 volt compressor refrigerators. My brand, Leisure Travel Vans, just switched to the 12 volt Norcold beginning with 2024 models.
I have a NovaKool with two Danfoss compressors, one for fridge, one for freezer and lately I added a W1209 circuit board to control the fridge’s temperature.
We have been using a $700 residential fridge for about 4 years now. I did have to replace the circuit board recently for $60. I am not sure if it failed because of bouncing down the road, or because we bought a cheap refrigerator. Either way, it is still way cheaper than a 2 way RV fridge, has a lot more room, does not have issues with frosting up, and does not freeze in the winter.
Ditched using the traditional RV fridge in my 1957 Avion R20, 1978 Argosy 6.0 Minuet and 4WD Chevrolet Express Van. I now exclusively use a Dometic Fridge/Freezer combination electric cooler. Portable for use in all 3 above and keeps food COLD or FROZEN for a longtime. Best RV Fridge I have ever used. By the way the original fridge/stove combo in my second oldest known to exist Avion camper still works properly!
When I replaced my original 20+year old propane (2017), I looked closely at the 12 volt fridges on the market. At that time all were very low rated, plus the expense of solar panels, and where to put the extra lead acid batteries. I finally decided on propane again so I could boondock w/o running the generator. Now, my decision would be 12 volt. I just replaced my 430 AH lead acid batteries (5* years old ) with 2 - 230 AH lithium batteries, and solar has dropped dramatically in price.
I need a bit more info to correctly compare batteries. How many lead acid batteries were replaced?
Did you replace the charge controller?
Hi Gretchen, I have a 1999 diesel Motorhome. It was designed based on having lead acid batteries for both the house and the chassis. I had 3 lead acid batteries sitting in a tray designed for 3 batteries. Total amp hours was 432, giving me usable 216 amp hours. I had already installed a Victron inverter/charger capable of Lithium ion batteries. I installed 2 - 230 amp hour lithium batteries giving me 460 usable amp hours.
After installing the batteries i found that I had to totally separate the 2 battery systems. I searched for a device that could separate the systems but allow them to be charged from the inverter. Couldn’t find anything. So I set up the house system to supply the house only and be charged by the inverter while hooked to shore power or the generator. I then hard wired a conventional 4 stage battery charger to charge the chassis batteries. Works great! I’m still looking for a solution to charge both systems at the same time. The problem is that the inverter charger now supplies 14.2 volts instead of the 13.2 volt float charger as well as the lithium batteries with their higher voltage ended up charging the chassis batteries.
I haven’t installed solar and probably won’t unless I decide to add a 12 volt fridge, as I can now charge the lithium batteries in about 4 hours opposed to around 8-10 hours.
I hope this answers your question.
Many thanks. I’m switching to a 12v fridge, gas/electric is on its last legs. Solar (flat-wrap) in the future. Husband and I were wondering how to separate the two systems and you just confirmed his redesign ideas. We will do the work ourselves. I won’t have to provide CAD drawings to an installer and can default to our usual felt-tip pen on a paper towel prototype sketches.
Thank you again!
I had a devilish time figuring out how to separate the systems but still keep the ability to use the auxiliary start system. My vehicle wiring diagram wasn’t right as to the various solenoid’s purpose.
One other thing, where you plug in the 120 charger need to be on shore power only. Otherwise the house battery will charge the coach battery when running on batteries only.
I’m behind in my reading and I have a 12 volt conversion on my Dometic from JC Refrigeration.
Good to know. So we should “proof” all the adjacent wiring to make sure it’s correct before starting the process. Tedious but necessary. Won’t be the first time we got into a system and said “This ain’t right!!!” Almost every upgrade had a “stop and verify the OEM is wrong…” event.
We camp off grid most of the time, so having a propane option is essential for us. We don't have enough solar to keep up with the large demand of a 12v type., so I am happy that our trailer came with the propane option.
2014 Rockwood MiniLite 2304KS standard issue Propane/120V refrigerator
I have to question the automatic “replace it with a residential” response I frequently see when someone says their absorption unit failed. If you look closely at the technical information on many smaller residential units you’ll find that they are not recommended for cabinet or built in installation. This is because the heat that has been removed from the interior is expelled from the top and sides of the unit rather than exposed coils on the back as in older and larger refrigerators. Putting one into a close fitting RV enclosure can seriously affect their ability to remove heat efficiently.
Very Happy with 12V compressor. Runs forever with solar.
"New to us" 2005 HR DP had a residential. We boondock at racetracks almost exclusively. At 1st opportunity, we yanked it out and replaced with a new factory direct propane/electric. Our batteries thanked us! LOL. Not looking to/don't care to add solar, Lithium, etc. We like wat we like and are used to. YMMV.
I selected "other" because I have the same upgrade as Mr. Wutka (prev comment). No idea what a "Danfoss type" is.
12V TruckFridge. With lithium batteries and charging while driving, our portable solar panels almost never get used. Propane generator, not needed yet. Closest thing to a perpetual motion machine you can get.