Thanks Mike. I believe that the weight of the surge protector also plays part in slightly pulling it out of the outlet. I always look for a way to take the weight off it by using some cord to tie it up or something to prop it up. We own a lot in South Carolina that I rent out when not using, first thing I did when we bought it was replace all receptacles, breakers, clean all contact surfaces inside of the box and meter base, and replaced all wiring from my side of the meter. Facilities manager thought I was nuts until I showed him how loose some of the wiring was from years of heating and cooling.
The latest surge protectors from Southwire claim to have overheat protection for the plug/receptacle. Might make for an interesting test as this cooked plug thing is a regular topic on RV forums.
While camp hosting at a southwest AZSP year before last I was tasked with maintaining the pedestals. Out of 30 sites I replaced 9 30amp receptacles that were anywhere from really bad to just starting to show signs of overheating and bad connections. Out of the 9 I had to cut off about an inch of wire that had also overheated and the sheath was hard as a rock. The most obvious sign of a bad or going bad plug is the space between the contacts. They get hot and lose their tension and start gaping apart which also lessens the contact causing more resistance and heat. Vicious circle!! I agree with Joseph one of the main problems is the design of the 30amp plug. Comparing to the 50amp plug it is all wrong. I think the ground prong should be on the bottom to provide support for the plug and allow the blades to stay horizontal and have less tendency to want to fall out with loose contacts in the receptacle. I also check all the pedestals every year at the MOSP we host to keep them in good shape. Also check them with a tester for proper everything there too. Before you plug in your 30 do a visual of the contacts of the receptacle and the body for spreading of the contacts and evidence of overheating. If your plug is loose in the receptacle contact the staff to get it replaced. Only takes a few minutes. Keep the plug blades and ground prong clean and shiny. Happy camping!!
Here's a frequent scenario - RVer has a long day, comes into the campground tired and the lighting is poor. After pulling in, leveling, and hooking up, it's all to easy to overlook that the TT-30 plug isn't fully inserted - the making of a low-current, high resistance connection. So far, no problemo until the a/c loads fire up and on goes the air conditioner, microwave oven, electric heaters, electric stoves, etc. Immediately the high resistance connection can't handle all the a/c current required and begins to get hot, Hot, HOT!!!
While it sounds silly to recheck your TT-30 to ensure the insulated plug isn't getting hot when you start turning on large current draw sources, I can guarantee that for those of us who have learned the hard way - we've found the religion to at least have a flashlight and closely double-check the connection if not come back later when devices in the RV are fired up. Or as my Danish friend's father would tell him, "Either you LISTEN or you will FEEL!"
I think it would be a good idea to use a dogbone adapter at the pedestal and use the 50 if available. If no 50 then a short 30 amp extension cord between your surge guard and outlet. Just long enough to get the weight of the guard off the outlet. And it is much cheaper to replace than the guard if you run into a bad outlet melt down.
Thanks Mike. I believe that the weight of the surge protector also plays part in slightly pulling it out of the outlet. I always look for a way to take the weight off it by using some cord to tie it up or something to prop it up. We own a lot in South Carolina that I rent out when not using, first thing I did when we bought it was replace all receptacles, breakers, clean all contact surfaces inside of the box and meter base, and replaced all wiring from my side of the meter. Facilities manager thought I was nuts until I showed him how loose some of the wiring was from years of heating and cooling.
The latest surge protectors from Southwire claim to have overheat protection for the plug/receptacle. Might make for an interesting test as this cooked plug thing is a regular topic on RV forums.
I have a brand new Southwire surge protector. Seems like a great test idea!
While camp hosting at a southwest AZSP year before last I was tasked with maintaining the pedestals. Out of 30 sites I replaced 9 30amp receptacles that were anywhere from really bad to just starting to show signs of overheating and bad connections. Out of the 9 I had to cut off about an inch of wire that had also overheated and the sheath was hard as a rock. The most obvious sign of a bad or going bad plug is the space between the contacts. They get hot and lose their tension and start gaping apart which also lessens the contact causing more resistance and heat. Vicious circle!! I agree with Joseph one of the main problems is the design of the 30amp plug. Comparing to the 50amp plug it is all wrong. I think the ground prong should be on the bottom to provide support for the plug and allow the blades to stay horizontal and have less tendency to want to fall out with loose contacts in the receptacle. I also check all the pedestals every year at the MOSP we host to keep them in good shape. Also check them with a tester for proper everything there too. Before you plug in your 30 do a visual of the contacts of the receptacle and the body for spreading of the contacts and evidence of overheating. If your plug is loose in the receptacle contact the staff to get it replaced. Only takes a few minutes. Keep the plug blades and ground prong clean and shiny. Happy camping!!
Here's a frequent scenario - RVer has a long day, comes into the campground tired and the lighting is poor. After pulling in, leveling, and hooking up, it's all to easy to overlook that the TT-30 plug isn't fully inserted - the making of a low-current, high resistance connection. So far, no problemo until the a/c loads fire up and on goes the air conditioner, microwave oven, electric heaters, electric stoves, etc. Immediately the high resistance connection can't handle all the a/c current required and begins to get hot, Hot, HOT!!!
While it sounds silly to recheck your TT-30 to ensure the insulated plug isn't getting hot when you start turning on large current draw sources, I can guarantee that for those of us who have learned the hard way - we've found the religion to at least have a flashlight and closely double-check the connection if not come back later when devices in the RV are fired up. Or as my Danish friend's father would tell him, "Either you LISTEN or you will FEEL!"
I think it would be a good idea to use a dogbone adapter at the pedestal and use the 50 if available. If no 50 then a short 30 amp extension cord between your surge guard and outlet. Just long enough to get the weight of the guard off the outlet. And it is much cheaper to replace than the guard if you run into a bad outlet melt down.
I like this idea but I would like a very short extension cord. Does anyone make a one or two foot extension cord?
Here you go. It’s an 18” extension
https://amzn.to/3KXq8cg
That's why I use the 50a. plug instead.
There are a significant number of 30 amp outlets that do not have a breaker at the power pole. So there is no choice but to plug into a live outlet.
I know…. That’s a code violation but I’m sure that many campgrounds were never inspected.
If thats the case then turn off the main inside your RV before connect/disconnect, or at least try to turn all the majors off (AC Water Heater ect)
That’s always a good backup plan!