9 Comments

Tip…before removing the anode, release the pressure in the tank by lifting the lever on the pressure release valve!!! Otherwise, as you’re unscrewing the anode, it will shoot out 20 feet, or 2 feet if stopped by your body, and it HURTS!!!…ask how I know!!!😀

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I've been using anode rods in my Atwood heater for many years. They always get eaten up. My heater is now over 20 years old and I'm thinking about replacing it, just because of age and not for any other problems. Just one datum, anecdotal. Not sure what to replace it with, still thinking.

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I do the same using magnesium anodes in my Atwood water heater. Magnesium is more reactive than aluminum, so magnesium is sacrificed at a greater rate than aluminum when present.

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Mike, do you have Amazon links you can add, say for the wrench kit?

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author

Yes, I’ll do that later today.

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Hey Mike what do the anodes that have 110 volts and claim to last 20 years actually do differently than the standard anode?

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I think in a nutshell, they use DC power (rectified AC) to move the anode function outside the tank, rather than placing a sacrificial anode inside the tank. Although I would like to know Mike’s take on this.

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The one I bought for my sticks and bricks goes screws in where the anode is The brand is corro-protec I have not installed it yet as the original anode is still 50%

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Mike, taking the anode and electron flow theory one more step; Do any/all the water tank level sensors act like a poorly designed anode. Will they corrode due the impurities in the disposed water? Secondly, does the polarity of the wiring affect the sensor by attracting corrosion to to primary side of the circuit?

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