Wow, thank you Mike for the detailed explanation.....you saved me a bunch of time and frustration.....I'll have the electrician read your response and see if we can add the 30 amp box with the 20 amp sticker.
Frank
PS Thank you for always putting links for cross reference and additional info....
No, the better converters have more robust RF protection and probably more leakage currents. Some converters seem to leak more than others, but I’ve never tested all the different brands for leakage, and I’ve never seen a study with this data. Also, if you have any surge power strips plugged into an outlet inside of your RV, that could be causing GFCI nuisance tripping.
I have no issues at home, I have a 30A outlet to plug the TT.
Have no need to use power strip in the TT. But did replace the converter last year, when I switched to a Lithium battery. PD converters are so easy to enable Lithium charging profile. And are the only converters recommended by Battleborn for their batteries.
It’s pretty easy to measure your RV’s nominal leakage current with a standard AC/DC clamp meter using a 10x booster technique I detail in the link within the article.
As I noted, the CMP-7 of the NEC removed the requirement for GFCI protection on 30- and 50-amp receptacles in campgrounds. But they forgot to remove the GFCI requirement for 30- and 50-amp receptacles in residences. Note that your RV already has a GFCI protecting all internal (and outside) 15-amp receptacles, with the exception of residential refrigerators that also cause nuisance tripping.
Does it make any difference code-wise if the outlet is located inside the house? Specifically, I installed a standard 30 amp breaker in the main breaker panel in my garage, connected to a 30 amp outlet in a box nearby using 10-gauge Romex. I run the cord from our RV under the garage door to the outlet, with no extension.
With our installation, the incoming AC goes through a breaker, and then through the inverter/charger (with integrated transfer switch). We solved the GFI problem by isolating the pre-inverter and post-inverter neutral wires to separate bus bars, instead of bonding them together. Problem solved!
On this topic I have a 30 amp RV receptacle installed outside my garage with 30A GFCI breaker in the panel that was installed by the electrician when I got our camper 4 years ago. I've never had the GFCI trip, so I'm assuming this setup is ok. Could you confirm that?
As long as your RV doesn’t trip the GFCI, then all is well. But if you get a new RV or upgrade the converter in your existing RV, then you could get nuisance tripping. If that occurs, then you can swap out the GFCI breaker, as long as your local code allows it.
Just to clarify, even though it's a 30 amp receptacle, you only have 20 usable amps.....don't run your AC or water heater and fridge or you'll trip the breaker
You’ll have to find out from your local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) which is code-speak for your county or city electrical inspector. Any licensed electrician in your area should be able to look this up for you.
Wow, thank you Mike for the detailed explanation.....you saved me a bunch of time and frustration.....I'll have the electrician read your response and see if we can add the 30 amp box with the 20 amp sticker.
Frank
PS Thank you for always putting links for cross reference and additional info....
In many of the RV's from factory they have WFCO converters.
Can a better quality converter have less current leaks. Thinking of Progressive Dynamics among all the converters out there.
No, the better converters have more robust RF protection and probably more leakage currents. Some converters seem to leak more than others, but I’ve never tested all the different brands for leakage, and I’ve never seen a study with this data. Also, if you have any surge power strips plugged into an outlet inside of your RV, that could be causing GFCI nuisance tripping.
Was just thinking.
I have no issues at home, I have a 30A outlet to plug the TT.
Have no need to use power strip in the TT. But did replace the converter last year, when I switched to a Lithium battery. PD converters are so easy to enable Lithium charging profile. And are the only converters recommended by Battleborn for their batteries.
It’s pretty easy to measure your RV’s nominal leakage current with a standard AC/DC clamp meter using a 10x booster technique I detail in the link within the article.
Already have a 10X line splitter and all the needed adapters to test and a couple DC clamp meters. .
Will try to remember to do that test when we get better weather here and can remove the winter cover on the TT.
Our NEW converter does NOT have the leakage current of our old Converter…. The old one would trip the GFCI… the new one does NOT….
Our AHJ requires gfci on both 20 and 30 amp outdoor receptacles no matter how labeled….
As I noted, the CMP-7 of the NEC removed the requirement for GFCI protection on 30- and 50-amp receptacles in campgrounds. But they forgot to remove the GFCI requirement for 30- and 50-amp receptacles in residences. Note that your RV already has a GFCI protecting all internal (and outside) 15-amp receptacles, with the exception of residential refrigerators that also cause nuisance tripping.
Bob, did you happen to measure the leakage current of your old converter?
Original was 13 years old…. Leakage Current was just over 4mA…
Replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics PD9330… Leakage current is 1mA…
I suspect the MOVs are leaky in the old one..
Does it make any difference code-wise if the outlet is located inside the house? Specifically, I installed a standard 30 amp breaker in the main breaker panel in my garage, connected to a 30 amp outlet in a box nearby using 10-gauge Romex. I run the cord from our RV under the garage door to the outlet, with no extension.
With our installation, the incoming AC goes through a breaker, and then through the inverter/charger (with integrated transfer switch). We solved the GFI problem by isolating the pre-inverter and post-inverter neutral wires to separate bus bars, instead of bonding them together. Problem solved!
Mike
On this topic I have a 30 amp RV receptacle installed outside my garage with 30A GFCI breaker in the panel that was installed by the electrician when I got our camper 4 years ago. I've never had the GFCI trip, so I'm assuming this setup is ok. Could you confirm that?
Thanks
Tony
As long as your RV doesn’t trip the GFCI, then all is well. But if you get a new RV or upgrade the converter in your existing RV, then you could get nuisance tripping. If that occurs, then you can swap out the GFCI breaker, as long as your local code allows it.
Just to clarify, even though it's a 30 amp receptacle, you only have 20 usable amps.....don't run your AC or water heater and fridge or you'll trip the breaker
Exactly… it’s the same as using a 20-amp to 30-amp dogbone adapter, but without a GFCI tripping.
You’ll have to find out from your local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) which is code-speak for your county or city electrical inspector. Any licensed electrician in your area should be able to look this up for you.