I've not done this upgrade yet, but here's my educated guess on what could work to change out a troublesome SCD (Self Contained Device) outlet in your RV.
the thin boxes are available at Menards and I would guess other big-box stores. thanks for the lever-edge outlet info -- hadn't seen them! I use WAGO almost exclusively now -- if for no other reason than I tend to have to revist connections in the future in my 50 year old house!
Mike, would it make sense to use marine-grade stranded wire for the pigtails? It seems it would be a lot easier to work with in the tight confines of a shallow box.
Only if the outlet is rated for stranded conductors, and you use WAGO connectors fog the pigtails. Mixing solid and stranded conductors in an RV using wire nuts can be a bit iffy.
I have used, and normally keep in my stock, the Carlon shallow box you had in your original article about the SCD. Great box with the "side car" space on the side for the wire. Without any experience with the Leviton Lever Edge devices, I would use a commercial grade 15A configured outlet like the Leviton BR15 with screw clamp connectors like GFCI outlets have and use stranded THHN wire to connect the outlet to the pigtail connection, most likely the Wago's. Easier to bend and/ or fold out of the way while installing the outlet. The stranded wire will work better with the clamp connections. During my last NEC code update for 2023 Electrical Code, they approved a SCD splice device that can be inaccessible behind wall materials. I will have a hard time having that splice, hidden in a wall cavity. They didn't show any special tool for the installation but your original article has me wondering. Now, I have 5 outlets in my camper to change out.
I've used the old work boxes in my trailers and as Mile suggested they didn't clamp down on the thin 1/4" walls. No problem I just glued a scrap piece of thin plywood inside the wall and the clamp the boxes tight.
the thin boxes are available at Menards and I would guess other big-box stores. thanks for the lever-edge outlet info -- hadn't seen them! I use WAGO almost exclusively now -- if for no other reason than I tend to have to revist connections in the future in my 50 year old house!
Mike, would it make sense to use marine-grade stranded wire for the pigtails? It seems it would be a lot easier to work with in the tight confines of a shallow box.
Only if the outlet is rated for stranded conductors, and you use WAGO connectors fog the pigtails. Mixing solid and stranded conductors in an RV using wire nuts can be a bit iffy.
I’ve seen a shallow box at Home Depot and they sell them individually.
Mike, Here is a company that will allow any amount. I ordered 10 and the shipping was $6.98...
https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Arlington-Rv135-Rv-Outlet-Box/5978960?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
This is a great project description. RV outlets constantly need to be replaced or added. Thank you!
Now the challenge will be how to find all of this great information months or years from now when it’s time to change an SCD outlet!
I’m working on putting all my articles in a library for easy reference.
I have used, and normally keep in my stock, the Carlon shallow box you had in your original article about the SCD. Great box with the "side car" space on the side for the wire. Without any experience with the Leviton Lever Edge devices, I would use a commercial grade 15A configured outlet like the Leviton BR15 with screw clamp connectors like GFCI outlets have and use stranded THHN wire to connect the outlet to the pigtail connection, most likely the Wago's. Easier to bend and/ or fold out of the way while installing the outlet. The stranded wire will work better with the clamp connections. During my last NEC code update for 2023 Electrical Code, they approved a SCD splice device that can be inaccessible behind wall materials. I will have a hard time having that splice, hidden in a wall cavity. They didn't show any special tool for the installation but your original article has me wondering. Now, I have 5 outlets in my camper to change out.
Wow thanks you rule
FYI- they stock shallow boxes at Home Depot for under $5 each.
I think the shallow boxes at Home Depot are designed for 1/2” drywall, so they might not be flush with the RV wall surface, but we shall see…
I've used them in my RV and they work fine. They are "old work" boxes and the tabs used to mount them will adjust down to flush.
I’ve seen these online, but haven’t held one in my hands yet. I’ll try to pick one up today at my local Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-17-cu-in-Electrical-PVC-Shallow-Old-Work-Electrical-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B117RSWR-B117RSWR/202077341
I've used the old work boxes in my trailers and as Mile suggested they didn't clamp down on the thin 1/4" walls. No problem I just glued a scrap piece of thin plywood inside the wall and the clamp the boxes tight.
Menards too for the Midwesterners
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-boxes-covers/electrical-boxes/1-gang-17-cu-in-shallow-pvc-old-work-electrical-outlet-switch-box/p035/p-15606070541873768-c-6425.htm?exp=false