I use plugs made by Contek. The blades are nickel plated rather than brass and resist heat build up much more effectively. I have not had failures since installing them.
I use the smell test every time I unplug from pedestal or at least once a month during long stays. Unplug and get the plug right to your nose. The distinct hot wire smell never lies, appears before any heat can be detected to the touch, and sticks around for weeks during storage.
I also always have a spare male and female plugs on hand. I find myself replacing at least one male plug per year.
Mike, a while back, you and Mike Z were conducting tests/research on why the neutral blade of a 30 amp receptacle seemed to be the weak link/sacrificial lamb in an apparently large number of meltdowns. Was there ever any definitive results to your research?
Mike, I understand how a 50 amp RV shore power plug should be wired. However, in the "Melted Shore Power Plugs" article you stated the following:
"... if the campground miswired the 50-amp pedestal with single-pole 120/120-volts on the outlet instead of double-pole 120/240-volts, then the 50-amp neutral conductors and contacts in your shore power cord are guaranteed to be over-current at times up to 100 amps"
I would be making an assumption on how a "miswired 50 amp pedestal with single-pole 120/120-volts on the outlet" would be wired. Would you please explain this further and how this would be bad and not result in the same or correct 240 voltage across the two power wires? Thank you! Dave G.
Using a temp gun is a great idea! I would think that it would be best to check the temperature when you first get the rv plugged in and then about 5-10 minutes afterwards? If the temp hasn’t changed much then check it again when you know you will be pulling most of your power from the pedestal. If it’s a huge jump (and what is that?) then quickly unplug and check for any loose connections in the cable plug itself. If that connection is fine then it has to be in the pedestal and the campground manager/host/owner should be notified to fix it. Also keep in mind that weather temps can affect the heat of the plugs/connections
My Itasca Sunstar class A doesn't have rv female outlet fir chord. Chord from the rv seems to be permanently mount to box that connects to generator. The seems to also mean Smart Plug not applicable in my case? Can I still use heat gun to test permanent rv connection for heat? Thanks
",,,,, and they have 20 times the contact area of a traditional twist-lock plug." Really? The picture shown certainly would make one question that. Plus, are those paddle clamps used to secure the connection to the RV as durable as the threaded ring currently is service? I just wonder if a little education for those needing it isn't a better solution. If it isn't broke,,,,,.
The twist-lock contacts only connect at the junction of the locking dimple, so the full width of the contacts don’t touch. And those latches on the SmartPlug are way more robust than any plastic locking ring. I just completed a 50,000 cycle insertion test on the SmartPlug in my lab, and there was very little wear on the contacts. The twist-lock plug that’s the industry standard was a Hubble design from the 1940’s for sewing machine factories. It was never intended for use outside in the weather, and certainly not mounted on a vertical surface. If you do everything perfectly they can work, but most people don’t.
Mike,
I use plugs made by Contek. The blades are nickel plated rather than brass and resist heat build up much more effectively. I have not had failures since installing them.
I use the smell test every time I unplug from pedestal or at least once a month during long stays. Unplug and get the plug right to your nose. The distinct hot wire smell never lies, appears before any heat can be detected to the touch, and sticks around for weeks during storage.
I also always have a spare male and female plugs on hand. I find myself replacing at least one male plug per year.
Mike, a while back, you and Mike Z were conducting tests/research on why the neutral blade of a 30 amp receptacle seemed to be the weak link/sacrificial lamb in an apparently large number of meltdowns. Was there ever any definitive results to your research?
Mike, I understand how a 50 amp RV shore power plug should be wired. However, in the "Melted Shore Power Plugs" article you stated the following:
"... if the campground miswired the 50-amp pedestal with single-pole 120/120-volts on the outlet instead of double-pole 120/240-volts, then the 50-amp neutral conductors and contacts in your shore power cord are guaranteed to be over-current at times up to 100 amps"
I would be making an assumption on how a "miswired 50 amp pedestal with single-pole 120/120-volts on the outlet" would be wired. Would you please explain this further and how this would be bad and not result in the same or correct 240 voltage across the two power wires? Thank you! Dave G.
Yes, I have a great tabletop demonstration of how this works. But I won’t have time to make a video until after the Quartzsite Show later this month.
I'll look forward to then, Thank you!
Mike
Luv your take on things electrical!
What happened to the testing you mentioned on 12 volt dc compressor refrigerators?
Sure would be nice to hear your professional opinion!!
Thanks
Jim Andrson
Using a temp gun is a great idea! I would think that it would be best to check the temperature when you first get the rv plugged in and then about 5-10 minutes afterwards? If the temp hasn’t changed much then check it again when you know you will be pulling most of your power from the pedestal. If it’s a huge jump (and what is that?) then quickly unplug and check for any loose connections in the cable plug itself. If that connection is fine then it has to be in the pedestal and the campground manager/host/owner should be notified to fix it. Also keep in mind that weather temps can affect the heat of the plugs/connections
My Itasca Sunstar class A doesn't have rv female outlet fir chord. Chord from the rv seems to be permanently mount to box that connects to generator. The seems to also mean Smart Plug not applicable in my case? Can I still use heat gun to test permanent rv connection for heat? Thanks
",,,,, and they have 20 times the contact area of a traditional twist-lock plug." Really? The picture shown certainly would make one question that. Plus, are those paddle clamps used to secure the connection to the RV as durable as the threaded ring currently is service? I just wonder if a little education for those needing it isn't a better solution. If it isn't broke,,,,,.
The twist-lock contacts only connect at the junction of the locking dimple, so the full width of the contacts don’t touch. And those latches on the SmartPlug are way more robust than any plastic locking ring. I just completed a 50,000 cycle insertion test on the SmartPlug in my lab, and there was very little wear on the contacts. The twist-lock plug that’s the industry standard was a Hubble design from the 1940’s for sewing machine factories. It was never intended for use outside in the weather, and certainly not mounted on a vertical surface. If you do everything perfectly they can work, but most people don’t.