You are correct. RVIA does require that all detectors are always powered in new builds. But older RVs probably don’t do this. And yes, you should be able to rewire the detectors over to the switched side of the disconnect switch, and keep the breakaway brake system powered up. But how to do this may not be obvious to non-technical readers.
Reference RVIA and detectors: It hasn't been that long ago. Our 2018 Thor Vegas's Dometic/Atwood LP/CO detector is wired through the USE/STORE switch and the WFCO Power Center, on a dedicated circuit with a 5A fuse. When in Store configuration, the LP/CO detector is unpowered.
Reference the comment on LiFePO4 batteries and cold weather constraints: It does depend on the manufacturer. For example, Dakota Lithium batteries were purposely designed for ice fishing down to -20°F without significant performance loss.
Richard Nickell's blog about winterizing Dakota Lithium batteries on electric-powered sailboats are generally consistent with what Mike said and in reader comments.:
My RV has 2 battery isolator disconnects installed, like the one shown; one on the LiPO4 house battery bank and the other on the LA chassis batteries. They are however installed on the positive side between the battery bank and the main fuse. I thought this was OEM but may have been added by the previous owner. Are these improperly installed?
Either way will work, but many times there’s a big fuse block on the positive battery terminal. In that case it’s often easier to mount the disconnect switch on the negative battery terminal.
Also note that LiFePO4 batteries typically have significant constraints with regard to storage at below freezing temperatures: Battle Born for example specifies on their website, for their 100 Amp-hour 12 VDC batteries, minimum storage temperature for -10 degrees F. On a telephone conversation with their technical support department, I was told that the the battery cases may crack at -15 degrees F. Some of the other manufacturers of LiFePO4 batteries specify even higher minimum storage temperatures.
I believe the RVIA standard is to keep the detectors powered even when the battery is switched off. It's not just an Airstream thing. This makes no sense to me as the camper would never be in use with the battery shut off. Rather than adding another shut off, I just move the detector power to the downhill side of the existing shut off. This is normally a 5 minute job.
You are correct. RVIA does require that all detectors are always powered in new builds. But older RVs probably don’t do this. And yes, you should be able to rewire the detectors over to the switched side of the disconnect switch, and keep the breakaway brake system powered up. But how to do this may not be obvious to non-technical readers.
Reference RVIA and detectors: It hasn't been that long ago. Our 2018 Thor Vegas's Dometic/Atwood LP/CO detector is wired through the USE/STORE switch and the WFCO Power Center, on a dedicated circuit with a 5A fuse. When in Store configuration, the LP/CO detector is unpowered.
Reference the comment on LiFePO4 batteries and cold weather constraints: It does depend on the manufacturer. For example, Dakota Lithium batteries were purposely designed for ice fishing down to -20°F without significant performance loss.
Richard Nickell's blog about winterizing Dakota Lithium batteries on electric-powered sailboats are generally consistent with what Mike said and in reader comments.:
https://dakotalithium.com/faqs/winterizing-lifepo4-batteries/
But if the BattleBorn are still connected to solar panels, even this small amount of drain should not represent a problem?
That’s correct. Even the smallest solar panel (50 or 100 watts) with a properly set MPPT controller should easily make up for those losses.
My RV has 2 battery isolator disconnects installed, like the one shown; one on the LiPO4 house battery bank and the other on the LA chassis batteries. They are however installed on the positive side between the battery bank and the main fuse. I thought this was OEM but may have been added by the previous owner. Are these improperly installed?
Either way will work, but many times there’s a big fuse block on the positive battery terminal. In that case it’s often easier to mount the disconnect switch on the negative battery terminal.
Also note that LiFePO4 batteries typically have significant constraints with regard to storage at below freezing temperatures: Battle Born for example specifies on their website, for their 100 Amp-hour 12 VDC batteries, minimum storage temperature for -10 degrees F. On a telephone conversation with their technical support department, I was told that the the battery cases may crack at -15 degrees F. Some of the other manufacturers of LiFePO4 batteries specify even higher minimum storage temperatures.
I believe the RVIA standard is to keep the detectors powered even when the battery is switched off. It's not just an Airstream thing. This makes no sense to me as the camper would never be in use with the battery shut off. Rather than adding another shut off, I just move the detector power to the downhill side of the existing shut off. This is normally a 5 minute job.