Thank you for the informative article. Could you please clarify regarding the use of a ground-to-neutral bonding jumper for use on a portable generator: Is it the case that, while the jumper may not be required or serve any purpose in some instances, is it ever the case that the installation of the ,jumper can be harmful or create problems? (1. I am of the understanding that the ground-to-neutral bonding jumper should always be installed. That approach simplifies things. 2. It is further my understanding that if there are multiple people/multiple devices being powered from a portable generator, then the National Electric Code requires a GFCI between the generator and the loads. On the other hand, it is also my understanding that a GFCI does not require connection to a ground, much less that the neutral and ground be bonded together. The GFCI trips when there is an imbalance greater than 5 mA between the current in the line ("hot") conductor and the current in the neutral conductor. This imbalance can occur for numerous reasons. not all of which require a conductive path from the line conductor to earth ground. (GFCI's still function at electrical outlets for which there is no earth/safety ground conductor present.)
I do not mean to imply that when a GFCI is installed on the output side of a portable generator that the neutral conductor and the safety ground conductor should not be bonded: These two conductors should always be bonded when a GFCI is installed at the output side of a portable generator.
Mike - I'm not sure how to reach out to you other than by commenting on an article you have posted. I'd like to know how to submit a new question to you for your RVelectricity Substack.
Mike, thanks for all that you do to help us understand these topics. A quick question: While there is no need to use a grounding rod with an RV, what about if you are using the generator at home? We have a larger dual fuel unit (it has wheels, so we could move it out to our fifth-wheel in a power outage, if we chose to do so) and it is on our covered back porch. We had a plug and transfer system wired into the house so that we can power selective circuits in an outage. The generator output is 230 volts with a twist-connect 4 wire plug. When we use it for our home, would it need to be grounded?
I think I understand the dynamics of bonded or not bonded. I also think I understand the code and safety reasons for only bonding at the source. My question is this. When would a potable generator NOT be the source and as such, why are they not bonded at the factory?
Hello Mike,
Thank you for the informative article. Could you please clarify regarding the use of a ground-to-neutral bonding jumper for use on a portable generator: Is it the case that, while the jumper may not be required or serve any purpose in some instances, is it ever the case that the installation of the ,jumper can be harmful or create problems? (1. I am of the understanding that the ground-to-neutral bonding jumper should always be installed. That approach simplifies things. 2. It is further my understanding that if there are multiple people/multiple devices being powered from a portable generator, then the National Electric Code requires a GFCI between the generator and the loads. On the other hand, it is also my understanding that a GFCI does not require connection to a ground, much less that the neutral and ground be bonded together. The GFCI trips when there is an imbalance greater than 5 mA between the current in the line ("hot") conductor and the current in the neutral conductor. This imbalance can occur for numerous reasons. not all of which require a conductive path from the line conductor to earth ground. (GFCI's still function at electrical outlets for which there is no earth/safety ground conductor present.)
I do not mean to imply that when a GFCI is installed on the output side of a portable generator that the neutral conductor and the safety ground conductor should not be bonded: These two conductors should always be bonded when a GFCI is installed at the output side of a portable generator.
Is there any way to edit a comment?
I can do it as an admin, but I’m not sure about a subscriber. Let me check.
Thank you
Mike - I'm not sure how to reach out to you other than by commenting on an article you have posted. I'd like to know how to submit a new question to you for your RVelectricity Substack.
You can always email me at mike@noshockzone.org
Mike, thanks for all that you do to help us understand these topics. A quick question: While there is no need to use a grounding rod with an RV, what about if you are using the generator at home? We have a larger dual fuel unit (it has wheels, so we could move it out to our fifth-wheel in a power outage, if we chose to do so) and it is on our covered back porch. We had a plug and transfer system wired into the house so that we can power selective circuits in an outage. The generator output is 230 volts with a twist-connect 4 wire plug. When we use it for our home, would it need to be grounded?
Thanks, in advance.
Tom Herd
I think I understand the dynamics of bonded or not bonded. I also think I understand the code and safety reasons for only bonding at the source. My question is this. When would a potable generator NOT be the source and as such, why are they not bonded at the factory?