I've run a ScangaugeII for years, 1st in a Chevy gasser, now in my diesel Sprinter. Primary reason I wanted it was exactly as mentioned - transmission temperature - better than an idiot light on the dash! Especially important these days that many transmissions are sealed, not even dipsticks. You can get simple code READERS for even less money - plug in to the OBD port, get a code number. A quick Google scan with the vehicle and the code number will let you know what tripped the engine light.
My advice, be careful when using bidirectional OBD2 scanners. If used for reading and resetting pending codes, no issue. Most will not reset permanent codes without a specific drive cycle for the vehicle. And if changing ECM parameters without understanding of what is occurring, engine and/or powertrain operation can be compromised for the worst. And in states with Emission inspections, tampering with performance curves can result in test failure when not matching OEM code. If it is not broke, don’t fix it.
Update: Just found this: “The ScanGauge 3 will work on all 1996 and newer OBD2 cars and light trucks. It will not work on diesel pusher motorhomes or over-the-road long haul trucks with 9/6 pin round connectors”. Sorry. 😢. Was looking forward to upgrading, myself.
Original post:
I have been using the scan gauge ll on my 7.3 Cummins diesel class A motorhome since 2016. Looking forward to Mike's review of the lll.
Just be aware that DP motorhomes do not have an OBD port under the dash. It’s located at the rear with the engine and its not called OBD.
From their website: “ Vehicles based on the J1939 (9 pin)& J1708 (6 pin) protocols such as diesel pusher motor homes and big rigs do not have a consistent standard for data transmission.” That said, mine works great but I had to buy the proper J1939 connection plus 30 feet of connection cable. I’m sure scan gauge can help you.
FYI, I also am a Scangauge fan, having used the 2 for many years. Recently, I upgraded to the 3 and I really like the improved visibility.
The one negative I have on it is that the programming/control buttons are on the BACK of the unit, which makes it necessary to un-mount it to make any changes. PITA, bad design decision IMHO, although it does keep the size down. But otherwise, it's a great improvement over the 2.
Mike, I highly recommend the OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth adapter and OBDFusion. Simple application for both Android and Apple. For those who want a deeper dive into troubleshooting and repair, there is FORScan for Ford vehicles, which has already been discussed. There is a free version and a paid version which is the one I use but isn't for everyone. Great tool, even greater that it is only $21 to get the expanded features. The great thing is the OBDLink MX+ can be used in just about any vehicle and the OBDFusion app supports a lot a vehicles but does cost money to upgrade to get more features for your specific vehicle.
I use FORscan on my 2019 diesel F-250. It's a free download, $20 for an extended license. It allows access and most (but not all) control and diagnostics for all Ford control modules. Of note, it does not work with the 2024 and newer model vehicles as Ford is locking down their control systems like GM to prevent tinkering. When towing my travel trailer, I keep my laptop in the truck in event of an issue. My diesel particulate filter failed to regenerate once and put the truck into Reduced Power Mode while towing the TT, in the mountains of West Virginia. That was not a good time. FORscan allowed me to force the DPF to regenerate without having to spend $600 at the dealership (and being stuck far from home) and all was good after that. As for folks who have GM vehicles, GM has always locked down their control system. I believe the closest thing to FORscan is an authentic GM Tech 2 OBD or a Tech 2 clone scanner (Chinese cracked the code). For Dodge, there is AlfaOBD.
I like my ScanGauge II on my DP, and before on my F250 Powerstroke, but only being able to see 4 gauges at a time was inconvenient. Looking forward to your review of the new ScanGauge III model! Hope they offer an upgrade special :)
“The ScanGauge 3 will work on all 1996 and newer OBD2 cars and light trucks. It will not work on diesel pusher motorhomes or over-the-road long haul trucks with 9/6 pin round connectors.” From amazons website.
I've run a ScangaugeII for years, 1st in a Chevy gasser, now in my diesel Sprinter. Primary reason I wanted it was exactly as mentioned - transmission temperature - better than an idiot light on the dash! Especially important these days that many transmissions are sealed, not even dipsticks. You can get simple code READERS for even less money - plug in to the OBD port, get a code number. A quick Google scan with the vehicle and the code number will let you know what tripped the engine light.
My advice, be careful when using bidirectional OBD2 scanners. If used for reading and resetting pending codes, no issue. Most will not reset permanent codes without a specific drive cycle for the vehicle. And if changing ECM parameters without understanding of what is occurring, engine and/or powertrain operation can be compromised for the worst. And in states with Emission inspections, tampering with performance curves can result in test failure when not matching OEM code. If it is not broke, don’t fix it.
Exactly! Plus in many (or possibly most) cases, an engine tuner may void the manufacturer’s warranty on your engine.
Will device work with either class A RV gas F53 OR Diesel engine?
I’ll ask the manufacturer to verify, but I think so…
Update: Just found this: “The ScanGauge 3 will work on all 1996 and newer OBD2 cars and light trucks. It will not work on diesel pusher motorhomes or over-the-road long haul trucks with 9/6 pin round connectors”. Sorry. 😢. Was looking forward to upgrading, myself.
Original post:
I have been using the scan gauge ll on my 7.3 Cummins diesel class A motorhome since 2016. Looking forward to Mike's review of the lll.
Just be aware that DP motorhomes do not have an OBD port under the dash. It’s located at the rear with the engine and its not called OBD.
From their website: “ Vehicles based on the J1939 (9 pin)& J1708 (6 pin) protocols such as diesel pusher motor homes and big rigs do not have a consistent standard for data transmission.” That said, mine works great but I had to buy the proper J1939 connection plus 30 feet of connection cable. I’m sure scan gauge can help you.
FYI, I also am a Scangauge fan, having used the 2 for many years. Recently, I upgraded to the 3 and I really like the improved visibility.
The one negative I have on it is that the programming/control buttons are on the BACK of the unit, which makes it necessary to un-mount it to make any changes. PITA, bad design decision IMHO, although it does keep the size down. But otherwise, it's a great improvement over the 2.
Mike, I highly recommend the OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth adapter and OBDFusion. Simple application for both Android and Apple. For those who want a deeper dive into troubleshooting and repair, there is FORScan for Ford vehicles, which has already been discussed. There is a free version and a paid version which is the one I use but isn't for everyone. Great tool, even greater that it is only $21 to get the expanded features. The great thing is the OBDLink MX+ can be used in just about any vehicle and the OBDFusion app supports a lot a vehicles but does cost money to upgrade to get more features for your specific vehicle.
I use FORscan on my 2019 diesel F-250. It's a free download, $20 for an extended license. It allows access and most (but not all) control and diagnostics for all Ford control modules. Of note, it does not work with the 2024 and newer model vehicles as Ford is locking down their control systems like GM to prevent tinkering. When towing my travel trailer, I keep my laptop in the truck in event of an issue. My diesel particulate filter failed to regenerate once and put the truck into Reduced Power Mode while towing the TT, in the mountains of West Virginia. That was not a good time. FORscan allowed me to force the DPF to regenerate without having to spend $600 at the dealership (and being stuck far from home) and all was good after that. As for folks who have GM vehicles, GM has always locked down their control system. I believe the closest thing to FORscan is an authentic GM Tech 2 OBD or a Tech 2 clone scanner (Chinese cracked the code). For Dodge, there is AlfaOBD.
With an OBD device with USB connection. On Ford vehicle it is possible to program everything from a laptop using the Forscan software.
Yes, I already have Forscan for my F-150, but that’s beyond the scope of this course… 😁
I like my ScanGauge II on my DP, and before on my F250 Powerstroke, but only being able to see 4 gauges at a time was inconvenient. Looking forward to your review of the new ScanGauge III model! Hope they offer an upgrade special :)
“The ScanGauge 3 will work on all 1996 and newer OBD2 cars and light trucks. It will not work on diesel pusher motorhomes or over-the-road long haul trucks with 9/6 pin round connectors.” From amazons website.
You’re right of course, Mike. It’s been awhile since I looked at the various SG offerings. I’m currently using the ScanGauge D.