I have found those cheap "tin" sockets to be poorly sized...and they take up a lot of room....especially when you consider everyone should be carrying a ratchet & extension anyway! In part of my kit I make CERTAIN to have proper sockets for the electric element (1-1/2) AND the sacrificial anode rod (1-1/16)!
Mike, your water heater element article should be a MUST READ for every RV'er.
I've never understood the reasons for having both a switch on the water heater and on the interior control panel of the RV. Seems redundant to me.
This article makes it sound as if even though I turn power OFF at the water heater, if the inside electric switch remains ON, there will still be 120 volts live at the water heater element?
I have found those cheap "tin" sockets to be poorly sized...and they take up a lot of room....especially when you consider everyone should be carrying a ratchet & extension anyway! In part of my kit I make CERTAIN to have proper sockets for the electric element (1-1/2) AND the sacrificial anode rod (1-1/16)!
Mike, your water heater element article should be a MUST READ for every RV'er.
I've never understood the reasons for having both a switch on the water heater and on the interior control panel of the RV. Seems redundant to me.
This article makes it sound as if even though I turn power OFF at the water heater, if the inside electric switch remains ON, there will still be 120 volts live at the water heater element?