Hard water deposits will cause the element to fail but over time. Along with other pockets of the U.S.A most of Florida and the South West are notorious for hard water. I carry a portable water softener with me and test the hardness every week. Even using this I still get buildup on my element and a little in the piping that usually shows up at the shower head. At least once a year I use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water in my plumbing system via the water pump winterizing hose and then turn the water heater on for several hours. The first time I did that I used a kitchen strainer to see what came out of the water heater and was amazed with all of the calcium flakes.
I hope this message finds you well. I've been searching for a solution to prevent burning out the heating element and came across your comment from March 16, 2023:
"If you install a pressure switch in series with the 110 switch, you should be able to reduce (eliminate?) chances of burning out the heating element."
I've been looking for a water sensor that I could plumb into one of the inlet ports or install inline, but so far, I haven't found anything suitable.
Would you mind sharing details about the water pressure switch you've used? Your insight could be incredibly helpful.
"Be aware that the vast majority of water heater elements are built for 240-volt power".
Really? This is the first time I've heard this. I thought all electric water heater elements were simply ac, and that would be 120v. Even mega-buck motorhomes and spendy 5ers don't need (in my opinion anyway) any more powerful water heaters. What's the point?
Or are you referring to sticks and bricks electric water heaters?
I'm talking about residential electric water heaters being 240 volts, as are residential electric clothes dryer heating elements. Of course, RV electric water heaters and clothes dryers are nearly all 120 volts.
Hard water deposits will cause the element to fail but over time. Along with other pockets of the U.S.A most of Florida and the South West are notorious for hard water. I carry a portable water softener with me and test the hardness every week. Even using this I still get buildup on my element and a little in the piping that usually shows up at the shower head. At least once a year I use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water in my plumbing system via the water pump winterizing hose and then turn the water heater on for several hours. The first time I did that I used a kitchen strainer to see what came out of the water heater and was amazed with all of the calcium flakes.
If you install a pressure switch in series with the 110 switch, you should be able to reduce (eliminate?) Chances of buring out the heating element.
Dear John,
I hope this message finds you well. I've been searching for a solution to prevent burning out the heating element and came across your comment from March 16, 2023:
"If you install a pressure switch in series with the 110 switch, you should be able to reduce (eliminate?) chances of burning out the heating element."
I've been looking for a water sensor that I could plumb into one of the inlet ports or install inline, but so far, I haven't found anything suitable.
Would you mind sharing details about the water pressure switch you've used? Your insight could be incredibly helpful.
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Regards,
Matthew
"Be aware that the vast majority of water heater elements are built for 240-volt power".
Really? This is the first time I've heard this. I thought all electric water heater elements were simply ac, and that would be 120v. Even mega-buck motorhomes and spendy 5ers don't need (in my opinion anyway) any more powerful water heaters. What's the point?
Or are you referring to sticks and bricks electric water heaters?
I'm talking about residential electric water heaters being 240 volts, as are residential electric clothes dryer heating elements. Of course, RV electric water heaters and clothes dryers are nearly all 120 volts.