Mike, you have talked about the Smart plug in the past but I have not yet taken the plunge. My shore power cable is getting old and a bit beat up and weathered. At what point do you recommend replacing the shore power cable rather than just the terminations? I know it’s pricey but do you recommend purchasing a new Smart Plug terminated shore power cable and just change the receptacle for the RV? What are the advantages?
Could low voltage from the pedestal cause this as you explain from the daisy chain effect you talked about . I’m on a Facebook Rv repair site and this issue is coming up a lot.
Low voltage does increase air conditioner amperage draw, especially down around 100 volts. And high ambient air temperature also increases amperage. However, there’s a 30-amp circuit breaker in the campground pedestal and a 20-amp breaker in the RV load center that will trip before there should be enough current to melt the twist-lock connector. In fact, the NEMA specification for the L5-30 twist lock connector calls for a continuous current test at 125% of rated amperage (37.5 amperes) with a fairly low temp rise that won’t cause damage. So, something else is causing the meltdown, but low voltage and high ambient air temperature also contribute to the effect. I think it’s a combination of loose terminating screws and oxidized contacts, plus neglecting to twist the plug to lock it, and not spinning on the locking ring.
A good friend had a total fire loss in a Mexican campground a few years ago. The damage was so severe and complete that there was nothing left of his power cord. As a former electrician, I am convinced that the fire started in the location of the power cord's connection point. Which, ironically was in the rear wall of his 5th-wheel camper, which was a unique feature of that year and model.
He and his wife were awakened at 3:00 a.m. by the smoke detector, from a dead sleep. The fire, in the rear wall of the camper, was so advanced that they barely got out alive, with nothing except his phone and computer/notebook. Passports were in the truck. Two hours later there was only the aluminum frame of the camper left.
The day following the fire I was telling the tale to my camper neighbour who then described how, a few years prior, he had experienced intermittent power connection. After, with his wife's assistance, tracking down the source of the problem, he took the coach's male receptacle apart. He found that the connections were loose and very blackened. He was a retired electrical engineer and felt that road vibration had loosened the connectors or they had NOT been properly installed at the time of manufacture.
All EXCELLENT suggestions. I would add that it's best not to connect "hot" (to prevent arcing) - at least not with any significant load. When possible turn off breaker at pedestal before connecting.
Mike, you have talked about the Smart plug in the past but I have not yet taken the plunge. My shore power cable is getting old and a bit beat up and weathered. At what point do you recommend replacing the shore power cable rather than just the terminations? I know it’s pricey but do you recommend purchasing a new Smart Plug terminated shore power cable and just change the receptacle for the RV? What are the advantages?
Could low voltage from the pedestal cause this as you explain from the daisy chain effect you talked about . I’m on a Facebook Rv repair site and this issue is coming up a lot.
Low voltage does increase air conditioner amperage draw, especially down around 100 volts. And high ambient air temperature also increases amperage. However, there’s a 30-amp circuit breaker in the campground pedestal and a 20-amp breaker in the RV load center that will trip before there should be enough current to melt the twist-lock connector. In fact, the NEMA specification for the L5-30 twist lock connector calls for a continuous current test at 125% of rated amperage (37.5 amperes) with a fairly low temp rise that won’t cause damage. So, something else is causing the meltdown, but low voltage and high ambient air temperature also contribute to the effect. I think it’s a combination of loose terminating screws and oxidized contacts, plus neglecting to twist the plug to lock it, and not spinning on the locking ring.
A good friend had a total fire loss in a Mexican campground a few years ago. The damage was so severe and complete that there was nothing left of his power cord. As a former electrician, I am convinced that the fire started in the location of the power cord's connection point. Which, ironically was in the rear wall of his 5th-wheel camper, which was a unique feature of that year and model.
He and his wife were awakened at 3:00 a.m. by the smoke detector, from a dead sleep. The fire, in the rear wall of the camper, was so advanced that they barely got out alive, with nothing except his phone and computer/notebook. Passports were in the truck. Two hours later there was only the aluminum frame of the camper left.
The day following the fire I was telling the tale to my camper neighbour who then described how, a few years prior, he had experienced intermittent power connection. After, with his wife's assistance, tracking down the source of the problem, he took the coach's male receptacle apart. He found that the connections were loose and very blackened. He was a retired electrical engineer and felt that road vibration had loosened the connectors or they had NOT been properly installed at the time of manufacture.
You can never be too careful.
Rick
All EXCELLENT suggestions. I would add that it's best not to connect "hot" (to prevent arcing) - at least not with any significant load. When possible turn off breaker at pedestal before connecting.
Changing to a Smart Plug is a smart decision. 😃
My original twist lock plug was showing signs of burning. I replaced it with a SmartPlug. Easy DIY. I still regularly maintain the contacts.