Breakaway Switch: Part 2

A reader update on an aging breakaway switch failure…

Hey Mike,

For what it's worth..... That plastic male plunger, as it ages will turn brittle and brake when pulled to test the brakes. One of the axle manufacturers, I believe it's dexter, used to offer it as an aluminum machined part...   can't remember what I paid for a group of them.

I was in Canada with a commercial load and the guy at the scale house pulled it to test....   it broke, I had to drop the trailer, disconnect the trailer battery and go chase a replacement.   Somewhere along the lines of 2 hours round trip.. Of course the scale house guy was dumb struck as I was about it breaking as it was jerked out...

Stay safe. I enjoy your work and effort. - Jim

Hey Jim,

That’s great info. I also had a breakaway switch plunger (officially called a “key”, I think) break apart on an old trailer. Since the trailer was still in my driveway it wasn’t a big deal to make a trip to the local trailer repair shop for a new switch. Depending on what brand switch you have, a backup “key” isn’t expensive and could be stuck in your road kit.

I found this replacement key and lanyard for a Curt breakaway switch at Home Depot for less than $3.

Remember, if that key breaks apart on the road your trailer brakes will lock up and you’ll need to disconnect the trailer battery to be able to even move your trailer. And you really don’t want to be on the road without your breakaway brakes enabled.

Failing to prepare is preparing to fail…

All this brings up the idea that perhaps checking your trailer breakaway switch for proper operation as well as testing for e-brake current draw should be part of a spring checkup before you hit the road. That’s the best way to confirm that all your e-brake electromagnets are working properly. I’ll work on a simple test procedure using an AC/DC clamp meter that can become part of your de-winterizing regimen next spring.

Let’s play safe out there… Mike